Irons have come a long way since they were made from wood in the 1500s.
And we should all be thankful they did!
Nowadays, you’re spoiled for choice, as irons come in many shapes and sizes to accommodate all levels of golfers.
This is why you can’t just buy any old set and expect it to work for you.
Knowing what kind of iron will get you the best results is important so you can shoot lower scores.
One step closer to that green jacket baby!
After you’ve read below, you may want to check out our guide/review of the best irons on the market for mid-high handicappers.
Quick Menu
Which Iron Set Should You Be Using
| Irons Types | Pros | Cons | Suited For |
| Blades | Low Launching Shape Shots Good Feel Distance |
Most Unforgiving | Low Single Digit Handicappers And Below |
| Cavity Backs | Great Forgiveness Affordability Distance |
Lack Of Feel Hard To Shape Shots |
Mid – High Handicappers |
| Muscle Backs | Great Feel Able To Shape Shots Distance |
Less Forgiveness |
Low – Mid Handicappers |
| Hybrids | Very Forgiving Distance Helps Slow Swing Speeds |
Chunky Profile | High Handicappers And Senior Golfers |
| Players | Okay Forgiveness Able To Shape Shots Distance |
Lack Of Feel | Low – Mid Handicappers |
Blade Irons
These irons have the smallest clubhead/surface area of any irons. They’re made with an incredibly thin top and bottom line.
In other words, they look like they could be used to spread peanut butter on a fresh slice of bread.
The weight is evenly distributed throughout the club head with a smaller sweet spot in the center of the clubface.
A blade sweet spot is the smallest out of all the other types of irons.
So, consistently making crisp contact with the ball is needed to use them, making them better suited for low single-figure handicappers.
Why would someone willingly use these irons if they offer no forgiveness?
They give the right golfer a level of control they won’t get with any other iron, which allows them to easily draw, fade, or keep the ball low.
But, if you struggle to hit the ball straight as it is then you should give these a miss…
Example: Taylormade P7MB Irons
Cavity Back Irons
Cavity-back irons are named because they have a cavity… at the back… of the iron’s head.
And while cavities are bad for your teeth, they’re fantastic for the game of golf.
See the cavity in and around the club head’s center so that weight can be pushed out to the sole and the edges.
By doing this, you increase the iron’s forgiveness so shots hit out towards the heel or toe have a better chance of launching high and straight.
Without this weighting, these shots would stay low and snap hook or slice away from the target.
The additional weight can also help gain more distance, but this comes at a cost, as the feel of these irons is not as good as that of other types.
But if you’re hitting the ball further and straighter, does that really matter?
Cavity backs are suited for golfers of all levels who want distance and forgiveness but are largely used by mid-high handicappers.
Example: JPX923 Forged Irons
Muscle Back Irons
Muscle back irons get their name because of how the material is distributed at the back of the clubface.
The majority of the weight is located behind the sweet spot of the iron, making flush shots feel and perform exceptionally well.
This design helps improve spin rates, launch, and distance for crisp connections.
These irons are the halfway point between blades and cavity backs. They offer more forgiveness than blades but not as much as cavity backs.
And they offer a better feel/workability than the cavity backs but not the blades.
Forging is typically how these irons are produced, and it requires a lot of time from manufacturers, meaning they have a higher price tag.
So, these irons are best suited for mid-low handicappers as you need to make consistent strikes around the center.
Example: Apex 21 Irons
Hybrid/Super Game Improvement Irons
Hybrid irons may not be the correct name for them, but that’s exactly what they look like.
They are closer to resembling rescue woods than they are irons because of their chunky head shape from top to bottom line.
The reason for them being so chunky is to give you maximum forgiveness and improved distance.
These irons are ideal for beginners or even senior players who need extra help.
Golfers struggling to gain enough swing speed should consider a set of these hybrid irons.
A top tip from me would be to invest in a traditional set of wedges, as this club’s overly chunky soles work well for longer irons.
But when you’re trying to add some finesse around the greens, not so much.
Example: Launcher XL Halo Irons
Players Irons
Lastly, these irons are in the same wheelhouse as the cavity back irons mentioned earlier.
They’re a step up from game improvement irons but a step away from blades.
So, they are tailored towards better players that strike the ball consistently.
These irons are similar to other cavity-back irons, except they have a slimmer profile, and the perimeter weighting isn’t as noticeable.
Meaning you lose a little bit of forgiveness while keeping all of your distance.
Example: King Tour Irons
How Golf Irons Are Made: Forging And Casting
Irons are made either through forging or casting metals.
Each method has its own pros and cons, which we go into more detail in this post:
Forged Or Cast Golf Irons? Which Should You Be Using
But if you don’t want to read another blog today, I’ll do my best to shorten it.
Forged irons are made from one solid piece of metal that is superheated until soft and then hammered into shape before being let cool.
Because of this forged irons have a very solid feel, but cannot have the same forgiveness as cast irons, and have a higher price tag because of the labor involved.
Muscle back and blades are made through forging,
Cast irons are made by pouring molten metal into molds, which cool and solidify. All these different molds are then pieced together to make a cast iron head.
This is what makes them so forgiving, as weight and multiple pieces can be positioned to increase forgiveness. The downside is that the feel is not as good, but they are cheaper than forged irons.
Cavity back and some players’ irons are made from casting.
Irons tend to last the longest out of all your clubs, so picking a set that suits your needs is crucial.
Different Iron Sets Available
Now that you know what kind of irons are out there, you need to know what variations of sets you can buy.
Below are three iron set variations you commonly find online or in-store. I decided to exclude adding single-length iron sets as you won’t come across them unless you special order them.
Most people can handle different lengths of irons, too, so it’s not something you should worry about unless you’re at the elite level.
Traditional Iron Sets
In these sets you will usually get 6 irons (4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 Irons), and at least one wedge usually a pitching wedge.
However, these sets can change, often depending on your budget. You can opt to get a set with an extra sand wedge or even have them throw in a 3-iron for you.
I’m not entirely sure why anyone would want a 3-iron, but that’s my preference.
However, these sets will contain a uniform set of irons, meaning they will all be identical.
Well, why would they be different? Keep reading to find out.
Mixed Iron Sets
Mixed iron sets are pretty common, and even 30% of the pros use a mixed set of irons.
Mixing up irons lets you get the most from your set to complement your game.
Most mixed sets have chunkier long irons with some offset, and as you get down to your mid-irons and wedges, the head becomes thinner or more blade-like.
This is because most golfers struggle to hit their long irons and not so much with short irons.
So having a chunkier long iron that will increase distance and forgiveness makes sense.
But a chunky wedge won’t help your short game at all.
Hybrid Iron Sets
Lastly, you can buy a set of irons that contain hybrid woods.
These woods will replace your longer irons, as they are easier to hit for most people. The rest of your golf clubs will remain the same.
Sets like these have become hugely popular over the last decade.